How to Test Your Soil

DIY soil test kits ($10 to $25) measure pH and sometimes basic NPK levels. They're fast (results in minutes) but imprecise. State extension lab tests ($15 to $30) measure pH, all macronutrients, micronutrients, organic matter, and cation exchange capacity. Lab results include specific fertilizer recommendations for your grass type. For a first-time test, always use a lab. DIY kits are good for ongoing pH monitoring.

Use a clean trowel or soil probe. Take cores 4 to 6 inches deep from 6 to 8 random spots across your lawn. Avoid edges, pet areas, and spots near driveways or foundations (lime leaching from concrete skews pH). Mix all cores together in a clean bucket. Remove grass, roots, and debris. You need about 1 cup of mixed soil for a lab sample.

Every state university has a soil testing lab that accepts mail-in samples. In Nebraska, send to the UNL Soil and Plant Analytical Lab. Most states charge $15 to $30 per sample. Fill out the submission form specifying 'lawn/turf' as the crop type and your grass species. This ensures the recommendations match your grass needs. Results take 1 to 2 weeks.

Focus on three things: pH (6.0 to 7.0 is ideal for most grasses), phosphorus level (most lawns don't need more), and potassium level (often low in sandy soils). The report includes a recommendation table: it tells you exactly what to apply and how much. If pH is off, fix it before spending money on fertilizer because nutrient availability depends on pH.

Soil doesn't change fast. One test establishes your baseline. Retest every 2 to 3 years to track trends. The exception: if you're correcting pH with lime or sulfur, retest annually until pH reaches the target range. Spring and fall are the best sampling times (avoid testing during drought or immediately after heavy fertilization).