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Pests and Insects Cluster Hub

Lawn Pests

Complete guide to lawn pests: grubs, chinch bugs, armyworms, sod webworms, and moles. Identification, damage patterns, treatment timing, and prevention for every major lawn pest.

Key Takeaway

The tug test is your first diagnostic tool: grab a handful of damaged grass and pull. If it comes up like loose carpet with no roots, you have grubs. If it resists, look for surface feeders or disease.

Common Lawn Pests by Damage Type

Lawn pests fall into three categories: root feeders that kill grass from below (grubs), surface feeders that chew grass blades (armyworms, sod webworms, chinch bugs), and burrowers that disrupt the soil surface (moles, voles). Identifying the damage pattern tells you which category you’re dealing with before you ever see the pest itself.

Pest Damage Type Season Key Sign Treatment
Grubs Root feeder Late summer to fall Turf pulls up like carpet Preventive: May to June. Curative: August to September
Chinch Bugs Surface feeder Summer Irregular yellow patches spreading outward Bifenthrin or trichlorfon when damage appears
Armyworms Surface feeder Late summer to fall Grass chewed to soil overnight Bifenthrin spray at first sign (evening application)
Sod Webworms Surface feeder Summer Small brown moths flying at dusk, chewed patches Bifenthrin or carbaryl when larvae are active
Moles Burrower Spring and fall Raised tunnels and volcano mounds Trapping is the most effective method
Voles Burrower and surface feeder Winter Surface runways visible after snow melts Habitat reduction, bait stations

Prevention vs Curative Treatment

Preventive treatments work before pests cause visible damage. For grubs, preventive products (chlorantraniliprole, imidacloprid) applied in May to June kill larvae before they hatch. Curative treatments are applied after damage is visible and are generally less effective and more expensive. The best pest management strategy: prevent the predictable ones (grubs), monitor for the unpredictable ones (armyworms), and act fast when damage appears.

Lawn Diseases vs Pests

Brown patches can be caused by pests or diseases, and the treatments are completely different. The key difference: pest damage has a physical cause you can find (grubs in the root zone, larvae on the surface, tunnels in the soil). Disease damage shows fungal signs (spots, rings, threads) and usually correlates with weather conditions (humidity, temperature). When in doubt, do the tug test: if the grass pulls up easily with no roots, it’s grubs.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is eating my lawn at night?

Most likely armyworms or sod webworms. Both feed at night and can strip large areas of grass down to the soil in a single evening. Check at dusk with a flashlight: armyworms are 1 to 2 inch green-brown caterpillars. Sod webworms are smaller (3/4 inch) and tan-colored. Treat with bifenthrin spray applied in the evening.

How do I know if I have grubs in my lawn?

Do the tug test: grab a handful of brown grass and pull. If it lifts up like loose carpet with no root attachment, grubs have eaten the roots. Confirm by peeling back a 1 sq ft section: more than 5 grubs per sq ft requires treatment. Healthy lawns can tolerate up to 5 per sq ft.

When should I apply grub preventer?

Apply preventive grub control in May to early June, before eggs hatch. Products containing chlorantraniliprole can be applied as early as April and last through the entire grub season. Imidacloprid-based products should go down in June. Water in with half an inch of irrigation within 24 hours.

What causes brown patches in my lawn?

Three main causes: grubs (grass pulls up easily), fungal disease (spots, rings, weather-correlated), or drought stress (entire lawn uniformly brown). Start with the tug test to rule out grubs. If the grass resists pulling, check for fungal signs. If neither, it's likely heat dormancy or drought.

Do moles eat grass roots?

No. Moles eat grubs and earthworms, not grass. Their tunnels damage lawns by lifting the root zone and drying it out, not by direct feeding. Treating grubs reduces the mole food supply but doesn't guarantee they'll leave. Trapping is the most reliable mole removal method.

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